Trail Letter 12: 5/29 & 5/30

27.8 uneventful miles today. Seriously. Nothing happened. The miles flew by, though. I flew by two ladies at one point, who, after finding out I was a thru-hiker, gave me a walking ovation and a “Way to go!” One of them had a dog that at first I thought was a bear.

At this shelter are Tyler and Shannon, two section hikers 4 days in. They’re headed to Katahdin. Also traveling with them is Blue, a dog who’s taken a liking to me — he’s been following me everywhere.

5/30

28.9 loooooong miles today. I’ve discovered (actually, I already knew) that the best way for me to take breaks is to wait as long as I can before lunch. After my first big break of the day, the miles drag by (relatively) for some reason. For example, yesterday, I didn’t stop for lunch until 20 miles. Today, however, there was a deli after 11.5 miles, so I decided to eat there.

While I as munching on a 3-cheese hero, three Spanish-speakers sat at the picnic table next to mine. It was fun to try to understand their conversation — el jefe (the boss) was poking fun at one of the workers, saying that the reason he doesn’t have a car — or even a bike — is that he’s an “hombre de la noche”. Was good to hear el espanol.

Today’s mileage led me out of NY and into CT! Another state down! Shortly after crossing the line, a lady let her 4 dogs out of her car — 3 German Shepherds, 1 Golden Retriever. They bounded down the Trail, and the GS’s were barking at me — it’s pretty intimidating, having 3 huge GS’s running and yelling at you. One of the nipped my leg, and then they immediately stopped. No blood, no foul…

Saw a fox this morning; less than five minutes after I set out from the shelter I saw him on the Trail. When he saw me he took off — foxes are VERY quick!

I’m all alone at this (a) shelter for the first time ever! It’s nice to be able to sprawl my gear everywhere, but conversation is nice, too.

Trail Letter 12: 5/27 & 5/28

27.4 scary miles today. The entire 27 weren’t scary — in fact, the day started off great; I got some breakfast at Dunkin Donuts, then called Cody — turns out it was today that he is arriving at Delaware Water Gap — more than 60 miles behind me. I told him I was sorry for being so fast :-p, and that he was welcome to ditch CrazyLegs and Bigfoot to hike with me, but he already had his transportation worked out. It’s a shame that he drove 700 miles and only 60 separates us from hangin’, but I will definitely visit him upon my return.

The initial climb in the morning was accompanied by 100% humidity and 100% heat. I’d heard rumors of “isolated showers,” but the sun was so bright it was hard to believe. It got a lot easier to believe when the “shower” isolated itself over my hiking butt. When the storm rolled in, I was hiking along a rocky, exposed ridge. After the third fall, I learned my lesson (wet rocks are extremely slippery) and slowed down the pace — but the storm continued. At times it seemed like a hurricane — the wind was blowing viciously in one direction, then in the blink of an eye blew just as hard in the opposite direction.

The scary mileage occurred 3 miles before a shelter; there was about 1.6 miles of exposed ridge, and it was still fury-ing all around. Once I saw the lightning strike, the pulse quickened — but the adrenaline didn’t really kick in until the ear-splitting thunder that made me jump every time, even though I knew it was coming. Despite the lightning, I continued crawling over these slippery rocks (even though I considered stopping; also I — perhaps foolishly — passed the side trail around the rocks labeled “Bad Weather Trail”), and when I finally made it to the shelter I realized how fun it was — stuff like that is what keeps this interesting!

I thought I’d try a different approach with my rain gear — just stuff the poncho tarp in the top of my pack and hope it keeps everything inside dry! So I was walking the storm shirtless, so when the hail started biting me I began to question my judgment. Regardless, by that time it was too late, but I’d hoped my sleeping bag was dry at least…

I should really quit hoping, because when I exhaustedly finally decided to set up camp (in the dark), I pulled out a saturated-sponge-bag. In addition to shivering in my extremely-uncomfortable sleeping bag, I had set up my tarp on a rock field, apparently (I didn’t feel/see them ’til I had layed down). So I “slept” miserably few minutes last night — curled up in a cramping fetal position, wondering if I should just pack up and move on or stay and fight the hypothermia… naturally I fought, but it was tempting…

Also, I was exhausted because today was nothing short of a roller coaster. Straight up 500-800 then straight down… rinse and repeat.

For some reason I can’t bring myself to hate being out here today (the 28th) as much as I did last night… now that the worst is over, I’m ecstatic about everything that happened yesterday!

5/28

24.6 renewing miles today. It was really hard to get out of my sopping sleeping bag this morning — it’s funny, because my reason for getting out was the same as my reason for staying in: to get warm. After such a miserable night, I wasn’t even interested in breakfast, so I just packed up and set out.

After 3.5ish miles there was a shelter, so I stopped in for some milk and cereal and ended up meeting Nevada — a chemist working with concrete mixes. He had plenty to tell me about life as I downed my breakfast.

I was trying to make it to Bear Mountain, NY before 2 p.m. so I could get to the P.O. After rolling over Bear Mountain, the mountain (you could see the NYC skyline), I plummeted 100 feet into town, where the Trail takes you through a park. I parked in the park, pulled all my wet gear out into the sun, and had a huge lunch (with an ice cream sandwich!) and a 2.5 hour break. How refreshing! I felt like an 18 year old after the break.

Directly after the park, the Trail runs through a zoo! I saw a bobcat, foxes, bald eagles, various owls, snakes, huge bullfrogs, and 3 bears, among other animals. The bear pen is the lowest point on the entire A.T., I just found out, at 124′. The foxes kept looking at me with sad eyes, saying, “Please let us out — we just want a taste of freedom, please!” But I resisted. And the coyote was going nuts in his cage — he really, REALLY wanted out. Most of the animals were rescued from hunting, auto, or other accidents. Anyway, the zoo was very informative and interesting, but very succinct so it wasn’t time-consuming to move through.

I’m staying at a shelter run by the Greymoor Friary — it wasn’t in my Data Book, so ’twas a nice surprise. The weather today was fabulous. Oh yeah, crossed the NJ/NY state line two days ago! Another one bites the dust…

Trail Letter 12: 5/25 & 5/26

25.7 beary, snaky, full miles today. After a hearty breakfast at the O’Brien’s, Mrs. O’B drove me to the Trail. She also packed me two PB & J sandwiches, a quart bagfull of strawberries and grapes (mmm, mmm, mmm!) and five slices of quite possibly the best banana bread I’ve ever had. She said it was a secret family recipe, so I can’t have it. The food did me well, especially considering I was carrying one of the heaviest pack-loads I’ve ever carried. I have a TON of food, and due to few water resupplies I’ve been carrying an ocean, so my pack is an anvil.

I met a Russian, a Spaniard, an Aussie, and the fastest talking guy I’ve heard in a while (a New Jerseyian) today. At the shelter I met five 24ish year olds, two of whom are very interested in my thru-hike. The provided dinner table conversation, and were quite possibly the most pleasant folk I’ve met in a while.

Because it’s Memorial Day Weekend, there are dozens of weekend-ers on the Trail, so I passed quite a number.

Saw a timber rattler coiled up on the Trail, as well as a black snake that surprised me, but th real treat today was the Black Bear that was 30′ off the Trail. I saw him, and his proximity to the Trail, and I hesitated, but then I said, “What’s up, bear? I’m just gonna walk on by you, so don’t freak out.” As I approached, we made eye contact and he turned around and scampered off… It was a very cool encounter.

The miles flew by today, even though I hiked alone. I think the 3-4 snack breaks I took really helped, as well as the meals yesterday and big breakfast. I’m hoping the guys catch up soon; i have a VERY bad feeling that I missed Cody’s visit — or I’m missing it right now. He had/has 4 days off in a row and is gonna drive from TN to hike with us for 2 days, but I can’t remember what days he’s coming, and I’m afraid he’s with the guys now, somewhere behind me. (Cody lived with Bigfoot and me for 2+ years.)

5/26

26.1 baked miles today. For about two hours, I wasn’t in an oven, but Mother Nature turned up the heat shortly thereafter to 80+ degrees. I was a slimy, sweaty mess for most of the day, and I drank about 5 liters of H20.

The scenery today was quite wonderful, and included a 1.5 mile walk on the outskirts of an ecological preserve. I saw some happy deer playing, and about 10 swans — beautiful and very large creatures — were swimming in the man-made lake.

At the end of the trek today, which was a NJ road, I illegally tried to hitchhike — I wasn’t interested in walking another 2.5 miles into town, and I would’ve skipped town altogether but I needed some fuel. It’s illegal to hitchhike in NJ, so I risked going to jail, but a nice fellow gave me a ride to his church, where they run a hiker hostel.

And at this hostel, they are super hiker-friendly. They were eating dinner upon my arrival, so I had hot lasagna and salad, then homemade brownies and cold milk. Then I got a hot shower and some laundry. There’s also a kid-care program going on here right now, so hikers aren’t technically supposed to be here, but the kids have enjoyed me (and my hat) immensely.

There’s a lady here whose place just burned, and she’s requested prayers — name’s Tracey.

Hangin with Trill and Master Alex — about to play Rumikube so I gots ta’ run.

Trail Letter 11: 5/24

8.9 leisurely miles today. Mike’s dad wanted to hike with us, so we pulled a short day. Part of the Trail was adjacent to a glacially-formed lake — it was an absolutely gorgeous day, and even more so as we sat by the beautiful lake munching on grapes, strawberries, and cherries.

The O’Briens have been extremely hospitable — feeding and providing me a roof and shower. I’m always in awe of the kindness that surrounds me… hidden, waiting for a mum like me to dance with.

Trail Letter 11: 5/23

21.8 outta gas miles today. I was practically out of food when I woke up this morning, except for a cup of cereal and two or three energy bars. The first two hours of hiking were very dizzy and weak, but my body became accustomed to running on fumes after that. It was easier to move without energy today, because at the end of the miles I knew Mike’s parents awaited (with sandwiches).

The miles today took us into Lehigh Gap, which we then had to climb out of, but it took us over one of the funnest rock-hoppin’ sections yet! I’m excited about Maine… I’ve heard you practically have to rock-climb parts of the Trail. Once we summited the ridge, the Trail continued along it, but this particular ridge had very little foliage, so for about 4 miles we could see the PA landscape unobstructedly. Looking west, the sunny blue skies were broken by a grey mass of matter that extended to the valley, and we could watch the rainstorms move toward, and eventually over, us. Then the sun would poke back through the clouds and within 30 minutes we’d be dry again.

I was almost eaten by a German Shepherd — I was about 2 feet from shoving my trekking pole down his throat when his owner finally re-contained him. It was somewhat frightening, but Hampton told me he would have had my back had a fight broken out.

It was quite a treat to arrive at the car — Mike’s mom had sandwiches (Eggplant Panini for me) waiting on us, and we went to their house where I met his brother, sister, and grandparents. His mom cooked a big meal, and a hot shower and laundry were very nice. Trail Magic!

Trail Letter 11: 5/22

33.5 rocky miles today. These renowned Pennsylvania roads have turned my brand-spankin-new shoes into used leather pretty quickly. Along the Trail, and more so in the southern portion, hikers are constantly fed “information” about the Trail, such as “The Shenandoahs are flat,” (which they’re not) or “It’s gonna be sunny this weekend,” (then it rains) or “You’re gonna hate Maine” or “You’re gonna love Maine.” One of the most famous pieces of wisdom is “Watch out for dem PA rocks!” Well, so far the rocks haven’t been too bad — they’ve definitely sounded worse than they’ve been… but after 33 miles of shoe-chewing foot-poking rocks, my feet aren’t happy with me.

I traveled with Mike and Hampton all day. It’s nice because we pick a destination, then “hike our own hikes.” So sometimes we hike together, sometimes it’s just two of us, sometimes I’m by myself, but we rendezvous for lunch and at camp. When I meet back up with CrazyLegs and Bigfoot, we’ll have to employ this strategy.

We arrived at the shelter late, and there were already four people lying down — they sat up and I heard, “Is that don Juan?” It was Dynamite. A voice from the other end of the shelter said, “Hey don Juan — I heard you were looking for me.” It was Trill, who also told me that Mom had posted on his site that I was looking for him. He’s (I think) teamed up with Dynamite, so no worries, Mr. McGrath — he’s not alone.

We camped tonight; I realized I had lost my headlamp (again)! That’s two headlamps in less than a month. So I can’t read or write unless I have some sunlight to use. So I’m actually writing this two days later…

Dalton, MA

Smiles all around! I’m taking a zero; sometimes it has to be done, and today conditions are absolutely perfect. Tom Lavardi is a local who lives right on the Trail and opens his home to hikers–including shower, cooking meals for us, sleeping quarters, and shuttling wherever we need. I’m the only one here, though, and it’s been a real treat getting to glean some of his Trail and Life wisdom. On top of that, the rain, the lack of a maildrop here that I was expecting, and the prospect of doing laundry, I’m not moving today. And my body is absolutely loving me for it…

Tomorrow I’ll probably be in New Hampshire, which means that I’ll be down to the last 3 states. In a week I’ll be in Vermont, which means two states. And in a week after that I’ll be in Maine. Which is the icing on the cake; the home stretch; the light at the end of the tunnel

GrDi, glad you got to visit Aunt Lynne and family! Hope you’re still the life of the party in the apartment complex! Thanks for keeping up with me everyday and leaving comments so I know someone’s reading.

Todd and Loretta, that’s crazy, ’cause ya’ll are my  heroes.

Dynamite’s mom, if I see Erik again I’ll be sure to let him know not to do anything he wouldn’t want his mother to know about, because if he does I’ll tell on him

Mr. McGrath, I think Trill’s been hiking with Master Alex, but you probably know better than I do. At least he’s around a kinda-large group of people, so he doesn’t have to hike alone if he doesn’t want. He’s a fun character…

Trail Letter 11: 5/21

22.6 alone miles today. After a fat breakfast at 3C’s Diner, I hit the Trail by my lonesome. Mike and Hampton needed to get some stuff at the outfitter and pick up a mail drop so I went on ahead. The weather-guessers said 40% chance today of rain, but luckily I never had to use rain gear at all. The chilliness in the air is nice for keeping cool.

I heard the strangest startling noise — like a loud wheeze almost. I was sure it was an angry bear, ready to duel me to protect its cub, but unfortunately it was just a deer. I guess it was snorting, but I’d never heard a dear make this noise before. It didn’t stop, either!

Saw a ton of chipmunks today — they’ve been everywhere for the last two weeks. Also saw a mouse running around in circles — I think it was looking for food. I tiptoed up and could’ve grabbed it, but I let him be.

Trail Letter 11: 5/20

27.8 miserably cold and wet miles today. Actually, the last 8 miles were very nice, especially after the first 20. After about 10 minutes on the Trail, the cold and the rain moved in. And they weren’t taking prisoners. I chose to skip the first shelter — only 7 miles out — but that left me doing 20 miles until a dry spot to lunch at.

On the way, I passed GDEUP (Giddy-up), the most joyful old man I’ve met. He said, “I’ve been out here two weeks, and I’m just loving every second. Even this!” he said, as he gestured at the weather. I also passed the SET couple (Snickers and Energizer Turtle), two hikers I’ve been behind for quite a long while.

Remember the guy whose headlamp woke me up in the Shenandoahs? I met him today — his name is Matt (Trail name = Marathon), and he can do ridiculous miles. He pulled two 40+ miles through the Shenandoahs, but he’s been moving slower now because his girlfriend is hiking with him for a couple weeks. He’s as far as I am, but started March 24.

Today’s trek ended in Port Clinton, PA, and Matt’s girlfriend Hannah had a car in town. Since there were 5 of us, we were going to split a hotel, but after an hour plus of driving up and down the interstate and finding no vacancies, we settled for a free pavilion run by a church. It was sufficient, and very cost-effective.

Trail Letter 11: 5/19

30.8 Mike and Hampton mils today. The circuit from the “Rain on” switch to the actual rain must’ve had a short in it – all day the weather was bipolar. In literally 30 seconds, the sky would change from rays of sunshine to drizzling rain and no sun. It went back and forth all day, but thankfully it was never too wet.

2 days ago when Bigfoot rolled into Duncannon, he was hiking with two guys named Mike (Nitro is his trail name, but he doesn’t like or use it much) and Hampton. Bigfoot had been hiking with them for about a day or two. Earlier, CrazyLegs had hiked with them for a few days. So now that it’s my turn to hike with them, they’ve already heard everything about me. Well, not everything, and the conversation made the first 25 miles pass very quickly.

I’m somewhat disappointed that I’m not with CL and BF — we had just reunited and we’re instantly separated again! I was looking forward to catching up, seeing what’s changed, and hearing stories from the month apart. But they’re not too far behind…