Trail Letter 4: 3/22

20.1 personal-record-breaking miles today. Today was the first day we’ve broken 20 AT miles. We’ve hiked more than 20 before (yesterday), but they all weren’t on the AT — the shelter was 1/2 mile off the trail yesterday. Walked over many many rocks and some ice — walked on ridges no more than 4 feet wide. One view today, in particular, was very captivating. Looking north at the layered Smokies — could most definitely feel the spirit of those mountains.

It’s getting quite cold, so I’m calling it quits. Sam may chill with Bigfoot & me at BF’s house tomorrow night.

Trail Letter 4: 3/21

19.8 high miles today. We climbed Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the entire AT @ 6,643′, along with some other peaks/balds (including Rocky Top). The 360 degree vista at Clingman’s was quite amazing, but signs there pointed out that air pollution from the last 50 years alone has limited winter visibility by up to 40% and summer visible distances have been reduced by up to 80%. There are many dead/dying firs and hemlocks — caused by two killers: non-native insects and acid rain. The hemlock wooly adelgid has been destroying forests of hemlocks, and the Great Smokey Mountain National Park is the most visited park in the U.S., so there are plenty of automobile emissions.

We’ve been keeping pace with a few other guys for the last week or so. Today we got to know Sam and Dynamite a little better. Bigfoot invited Sam to his house for some time off, but we’ll see. When we arrived at the shelter, 3 high school seniors were already here. They’re from St. Louis, taking 5 of their spring break days to live in the woods. They asked us questions about thru-hiking, so we got to pretend we knew what we were talking about. I guess we did, relative to their knowledge.

The wood here is wet, and it was quite an effort to start and maintain a fire, but we did anyway. I twas great, too, because everyone helped out voluntarily — a team effort.

Hiking through the rock fields and ice-patches was an absolute blast today. My blisters still look hideous, but they’re healing (I think) and are hurting less… two more days until they get a well-deserved, much-needed rest.

Trail Letter 4: 3/19, 3/20

5.5 drugged miles today. My baby toe blister has turned quite sour — pictures of it will surface eventually. Feezel has some “Vitamin I” as we call it — it’s prescription strength ibuprofen. So after axing the pain with V-I, we trekked through some heavy winds and a medium rain to Fontana Dam.

After picking up our mail drops at the P.O., we decided to get a room for the night and wait out the bad weather. (Thanks for the awesome mail drop, mom!)

Bought a poncho-tarp and sent home the rain jacket, pack cover, and gaiters. Probably cut around 1 lb. from the pack, and I think the poncho tarp will be much more effective than the rain jacket/pack cover combo. The gaiters just didn’t prove to be useful.

We start the Smokies tomorrow — home sweet home! Hard hiking, but great environment. Gonna stop for a couple days at Bigfoot’s house for some Easter dinner leftovers and relaxing in the hot tub… my feet will absolutely love that.

A huge thanks and love to those who left messages on my phone — it’s more encouraging than you imagine. (And some of you may have noticed, like Drew did, my mispronunciation of “Appalachian”. The correct pronunciation is “appel-a (as in apple)-chun”.)

3/20

17.8 homeward miles today. After crossing the Fontana Dam, Bigfoot and I began the initial descent of the Smokey Mountains. Feezel left the hotel earlier in order to start his day earlier in order to get to his home, family and girlfriend earlier. He’s going to take two days off while Bigfoot and I trek on, then we’re going to take two days off at Bigfoot’s while Feezel catches up.

The day off did wonders for the body, as the miles today weren’t terribly difficult, but I did indulge in some Vitamin I early in the morning — my blisters are still nasty looking (and feeling). I popped the one on the heel of my foot and cut away the skin, and I’ve been cleaning them both with alcohol as much as I can handle… Where’s a nurse when you need her?

There are 4 girls at this shelter — Olivia, One Way Ticket, Graceful, and Little Bear — who make up “The Four Sisters”. It’s great to see some estrogen out here thru-hiking, especially girls our age.

Gonna haul butt to make it to Bigfoot’s on Easter night — leftovers!!

Trail Letter 3: 3/18

15.2 incredibly painful miles for me today. The blister on my pinky toe, left foot grew to about the size of a marble, while another blister (very painful also) developed on the right of the heel on the same foot. ‘Twas most definitely the most painful day yet. When we set up camp, Bigfoot helped doctor me up: I poked a hole in the heel blister skin and squeezed all the pus out. Put gauze on top of that, and may moleskin it tomorrow. Bigfoot popped the pinky toe blister, soaked up the pus, then cut all the excess skin off (ow). I then used a cotton alcohol swab to disinfect it (double ow), then we gauzed it up. Feet are very important in this endeavor, so I have to take very good care of mine — something I’ve apparently failed at thus far.

Passed a troupe from Warren Wilson College today — they were doing trail maintenance. The looks I got from the college kids ranged from curiosity to admiration to disgust (I am pretty gross, I s’pose). Told them thanks for keeping the trail in shape.

When you spend much consecutive time under no roof, you’ll start to notice your mood somewhat reflects Nature’s. I guess it happens when you live every day under a roof, but it’s been far more apparent to me, out here.

Some of these feelings – the ones brought about by warm sunsets on windy days or rolling fog in mountain range vistas or even drizzling dreary rain – they’re so far from describable, but the peace and centeredness they bring make it hard to imagine that somewhere hate exists and fights live. Well worth the pain.

Trail Letter 3: 3/17

18.4 hard miles today. We started bout 5000′, hiked into the N.O.C. @ 1740′, then climbed back up to 4000′. Hiking downhill is extremely stressful on the body, and although it takes more effort & energy, I prefer uphill because it’s almost painless. I wish I could describe some of the pains I feel throughout the day — they’re usually small but very repetitive and substitutable. That is, when one disappears, another one’s been waiting on deck and steps up to the plate. I hope in a few weeks I’ll have all these little quirks worked out.

Today we hung out at the N.O.C. (Nantahala Outdoor Center) for a while. Bigfoot and I ate at a restaurant there, and I probably ate too much — black bean enchiladas, wild rice, french fries, chips & salsa, and two huge glasses of sweet tea. Calories, calories! We also resupplied for the 2 day hike to Fontana Dam — the entrance to the Smokies! We’re almost in the homeland (TN)!

I just met a thru-hiker named Mangy Moe, and he’s hiking with a gorgeous mutt named River. I’m glad some people put up with the hassle of bringing a dog, because otherwise I’d really miss em. If you own a dog, give it an extra treat and scratch behind the ear from me, please!

PSA

Check out the new link on the right side of the page–some pictures from the first two weeks! I don’t know how often I’ll have as good of an oppurtunity as I do now to upload these, but I’ll certainly do my best.

Trail Letter 2: 3/16

19.6 miles today. Today’s trek included the hardest climb yet, due entirely to its length. It was so worth it, though, because at the top was a 360 degree view of the Appalachians, as well as some really soft grass and beaming sun to help put me to sleep… for a few minutes. The Methane Sisters, Toots and Burples, were hanging out up there, too.

On the way to the campsite, we encountered a HUGE tent (70+ lbs, $3,000) housing a retired “Trail Angel” named Apple. Trail Angels are people who provide Trail Magic, often deliberately. I drank two cokes, ate almost 10 cookies, and succumbed to my hunger enough to eat a hot dog. Can’t ever seem to get full, just less hungry, as Feezel put it.

It’s great using the sun as an alarm clock.

Trail Letter 2: 3/14 and 3/15

15.3 miles today, most of which was in the sometimes pouring, sometimes drizzling but always dreary rain. On top of that, it’s pretty cold. It was a good opportunity for us to test our rain set-ups, and I think everyone’s happy with the results. I am. And we’re all VERY happy to have a dry shelter – even if it was built in the 50s… only has one leak in the roof!

I have two baby blisters – one on a toe of each foot. They’re not debilitating, but I plan to Moleskine them tomorrow before we set out anyway.

The time passes much quicker for me than when we started, and I’ve already grown to enjoy the long days’ hikes. I told a friend before I started — I said, “If I end up being miserable all the time, I’ll just go home.” But although the conditions (today, at least) and some situations would seem miserable to most, they give me great inner joy… at least so far.

3/15

12.1 miles today. It’s less than what we’ve been doing, but it was absolutely pouring rain — and hailing. Everything from my waist down was 100% saturated – my feet and shoes were a giant sponge.

So what a relief when we made it to a shelter! Except it leaks in 3 places. Luckily we got here before the other two guys (Wolf Scout and Sam), so we got to pick the dry spots. While we were here, it hailed 2 or 3 more times, and it continues to spastically pour as I write. The lightning is amazing — the whole sky goes pink for a moment.

The moleskines and duct tape did the trick on my blisters. They’re still there, but they hurt a whole lot less.

Trail Letter 2: 3/13

Today was a “zero” day – one when you hike 0 miles and give the body time to recoup. We did 8.9 miles anyway, partially on accident. We missed a campsite and ended up… in North Carolina! We’ve made it through GA in 6 days.

Last night when I was filling out the Cloud9 Hostel form, I put “NAMELESS” in the blank, so Crutch took that to be my trail name. Trail names seem awkward to me yet – it’s weird to call Dave “Feezel” and Bird “Bigfoot”. Slow Barbara pointed out that she earned much more trail recognition when she added the “Slow” to her name. I’m enjoying the idea of being unnamed, a nobody, an everybody, just another hiker — but if I get the urge for noteriety, I’m sure a trail name will find me. After all, I am a part of the legendary “Tennessee Studs.” How much more fame could one want?

We went to Hiawassee today for a resupply, relaxed in the Jacuzzi, then hit the trail. When I hitched back from town, a retired postal service worker gave me a lift to The Blueberry Patch, where I had a mail drop. It was also there where I met, to the best of my recollective ability, the first black hiker I’ve ever seen. He gave me a lift back to Cloud9 and said he was starting a thru in a month or so.

Tonight Bigfoot accidentally threw a $10 bill in the campfire before quickly retrieving it. Too late, hah, because all that’s left is A. Hamilton’s mugshot in a singed frame.

Weather’s been perfect – the sky is so very clear at night.

Trail Letter 1: 3/08 thru 3/12

3/08

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11 miles of hiking and only 2.8 done on the AT! The approach trail was worth it – very cold, but rewarding to reach Springer. Dave is now “Feezal”… (illegible).

3/09

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13.7 miles today – arrived at campsite with 3 hours of sunlight to spare. Ran into quite a few people today – a group of boy scouts, a few groups of weekend backpackers, and about 7 other thru-hikers. The sun worked its magic today and warmed our bones – a hearty improvement from the 25 degree snowy, windy conditions of yesterday. Ha, I feel like an old person, talking about the weather so much, but when it’s your central heat and air you tend to pay more attention to it.

A group of “kuntry boyz” from ‘Nawlins shared the campsite yesterday – I absolutely love hearing rowdy obnoxious conversations over the sounds of nature – esp. when I’m sleeping (or trying to). Met a guy who rode his bike from MI to Maine to CA to Mississippi, hitched here, bought 10 days worth of Ramen, and set out on the trail. He’s broke.

Also met the ridge runner who checks the GA section shelters and picks up lazy hiker litter.

3/10

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Put in a good 15.3 miles today. Weather was near perfect – in the 50s with a nice breeze. My face is already chapping pretty hard – between coldness, windiness, and sunniness (along with runniness of the nose), that burning feeling is slowly/steadily creeping in on me. I’m doing my best to dampen the effects with a handkerchief, but it only goes so far.

Climbed to the highest point in GA today. Blood Mountain, at 4,461′. We’ve passed way more hikers than have passed us – hope we can keep it up (it’s only day 3). Caught some tasty views along the ridge and mtns. today. Also encountered a hostel/outfitter with EVERYTHING – one of the hikers we met, “Dog”, bought 5 cheeseburgers with the intention of consuming all of them. I doubt he can. There were lots of hikers limping around the outfitters, and it felt good to not be among them. Bird’s getting more interested in a lighter load, and my take one of my Heine-can stoves.

Saw an owl just before arriving at the campsite – they have deep stares.

And we’ve been dubbed with our team name – “The Tennessee Studs.” Bird & I are still waiting for trail names to find us.

3/11

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16.9 miles today. Got our first taste of Trail Magic – we descended from Cowrock Mt. to find a husband/wife team grilling burgers, giving out stew (delicious), drinks, veggies, coleslaw, and other wonderful goodness. It really lifted morale. Thanks Kujo & White Bear!

It was drizzly for 2-3 hours today, but luckily not enough to soak us. Everyone’s holding up pretty well so far – my baby pinky toe keeps acting like it wants to blister, but it hasn’t yet. I think I’ll buy insoles & pantyhose @ Hiwassee. We’ve still been passing many people and few have passed us – hope we can keep it up.

Feezel took the first fall of the trip today – Bird and I are still at 0. Ran into a Gator fan, a gorgeous black German Shepard, 2 Indians, and a kid from Chattanooga – who spent lots of time @ Watts Bar Lake – today.

3/12

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We walked a fat 18.8 miles today. Feezel found some insoles at the shelter last night, so I put them in my boots. After 15 mins, I had to take the original insole out of the left boot, but after that I was gravy, baby.

Climbed the hardest “hill” so far (in my opinion) today – the heat’s what made it so tough.

It seems like so much has happened today, but now that I’m warm & comfy, it’s hard to recall. I was sad last night, because a lady was staying at our shelter who had just decided to quit her thru-hike. I didn’t even know her or care about her really, but I wanted her to keep going… I guess she’s the first of many we’ll see.

Anyway, we’re staying at Cloud 9 Hostel tonight – it’s got more than my house! Jacuzzi, showers, pool, ping-pong, horseshoes, blister care, sat. TV, and lots of other hostel-goers. The shower was unsurprisingly refreshing, and Feezel & I have some deep dish pizza on the way. Maybe it’s my hunger, but I’m not really interested in doing much right now – including socialize. You can tell these people haven’t had anyone to talk to for a couple days…

We’ve been moving quite a bit faster than the average hiker, I think Bird (who is now “Bigfoot”) is gonna have to cut some serious pounds from his pack to keep this pace up. It’s nice being in or close to your physical prime….:-p We’re going into Hiawassee, GA tomorrow to resupply. I’ve got a lot to figure out yet.